Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Day 9 Antalya

Windy last night - some rain too, but now as usual a hot day. Eggy toast, two big mugs earl Grey tea. Climbing: lots of people (just) it about - but I'm still - at least at the moment - on climbing. I wonder if it will dissipate / wear off - suspect not. I've noticed that there's a lot of crap about grades. It seems that most people claim to lead upwards of 7a, yet I think only one (Danny) does; for me I can do 5c / 6a - but did fail on two 6as today. If I cannot do it on sight then I cannot realistically climb at that grade. Noticed that the longer routes seem easier for a given grade. Anyway, today saw me do: Geyik - hot in the sun, okay earlier on, but by 11:30 am sun full on! 5a 5b; 5c 5c; i.e. a couple of two pitch routes. Given VI- or 5.9 USA or HVS 5a UK - stacks up in my mind. Failed on two 6a routes. The day improved with a 5c+ (this is about 5.10a).

Cups of tea, a couple of tomatoes for lunch: apparently not allowed [Hot Rock] tea bags [at lunch time], but had one of my own. Thence Turkish Standard area. 5a, 5c+ and a 6a (VI+ or 5.10b). Last route seemed a lot easier than UK 5c. I like the cliff - overlooking the Jo Si To campsite.

Now back at truck. Still think lots of crap re. climbing - comments like 'my belayer shouldn't be tied down - since it's harder to pay out slack(!)'. In general the group dynamics are interesting. I'd recommend Hot Rock to a psychologist or perhaps an alienist.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Day 8 Antalya

Up early. 5:30 am. Idea was to get on the rock before the sun. Usual faffing - but did five routes. 5b 5b 5b 5c 6a (right hand crag above Jo Si To campsite). Climbing good [in the shade] - but really felt the heat whenever I put my hand into the sunlight.


A bit bored. Would like to do more climbing - but everyone's chillaxing. I guess I need to learn how to do the same. Yesterday, Dolphin made some comment about civilisation versus humanity - not sure what he meant exactly (I was in the middle of a route), but seemed an interesting thing to think about. By the wqay, breakfast was good - perhaps someone felt bad for yesterday's lack of food: lots of eggy bread for Dolphin and I. A pity that this campsite is away from the shops: would really like internet access and maybe a post office.


Afternoon: bored - need more climbing. Hung around the local on-site crag; did a very easy 5b; failed on a 5c (one I succeeded on last night) - funny how we tend to deride those things we cannot do. Anyhow, ended up attempting a 6c on a top rope - okay until the strenuous parts...
Repeated Pene de Diablo, plus a new to me 5c. In the end today I did ten routes. Not bad, huh?

22:02 In tent. Temperature currently 22.5 degrees C. Good supper tonight.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Day 7 Antalya

5:55 am. Up and ready to go climbing - will follow others up in hope of getting a belayer. [Later] Good climbing, 8 routes 5a 5c 6a 5c; 5b 5c 4b(!); 5c - last in glooming light. Annoyed because no supper for me or Dolphin [Our Turkish recruit: I tried to teach him phrases like 'it's a bloody shower' and 'piss up in a brewery' - the latter he got as 'You want to piss me up in a brew house' - 'near enough', I said.]. Earlier today I hitched down to Antalya proper with Dolphin - we took the first couple of vehicles to arrive - which happened to be motorbikes. Turks are so sociable. Our hitch-providers (i.e. bikers) had lunch with Dolphin and I; thence drove us further towards Antalya. Failed to buy any stove or gas - ironically I wanted to buy this so I could cook for myself [and mitigate Hot Rock's meagre food]. And when we got back - no supper...they had 'forgotten'. I'm fed up with how crap things are.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Day 6 Antalya

07:46 am 32.5 degrees C in tent! Getting up - after good sleep (but not enough really) breakfast 8 am. A clear hot day. [Later] Today did some actual outdoor climbing - bolted of course though! Did a 6a, 5c, 5c then a break: it's too hot really in the afternoon. Then did a couple more routes (4 and a 5c) and fell off a 5c - managed to invert in my harness - the first routes were okay - the last one was polished...lots of bullshit re. climbing / climbers. Good supper - plenty of it, generous portions this time so less annoyed. George made tip-top bread pudding. Midnight. 19 degrees C in tent. Starry clear night. Loud cicadas or somesuch.

Friday, June 6, 2008

Day 5 Antalya

Left Istanbul last night - funny to be getting on the truck to drive all the way to Delhi. Long night; cold later on. No sleep. Truck stopped for a couple of hours at about 3 am which was the worst bit - uncomfortable, in part I guess because I am a newbie [so miss out on good sleeping places]. Better after a stop at some midway town about 10:30 am. Bought a couple of pink pillows - an important luxury. Now set up in tent on the campsite [Antalya]. Have guidebook - it was put on my bar tab(!). Very stony ground. A bit annoyed at the very small amount of food provided for supper - not nearly enough, plus I failed to get seconds, having lent my plate out - silly me. This trip will make me a bit selfish I'm afraid.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Day 4 Istanbul

Got back 3:30 am to hostel. most odd mixture of [club] music. Before this we - or at least some of the more 'hard core' went back to the Olivium shopping centre for some more climbing on their wall. All very odd really. So far each day is a bit odd and different, but good. Feet sore. Will probably mooch about Istanbul today. Tonight we drive to Antalya.

[Spent the morning at The Topkapı Palace, the official and primary residence in Istanbul of the Ottoman Sultans, from 1465 to 1853.] Caldarium, tepidarium, frigidarium baths (c16) etc...the Harem was - as promised by colleagues - better than the rest; I have a low boredom threshold, yet quite a lot of the stuff held my attention , mainly the architecture. The old 'black' oil paintings of numerous sultans did not.

Afterwards a poor lunch (probably because place recommended in Lonely Planet guide - probably was good before it got into the guide - like a starred route).

Currently enjoying a double Turkish coffee - medium sweet; need to be back in hostel at 17:00.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Day 3 Istanbul

Yesterday: secret to climbing 8a appears to be going out clubbing to 3 am! Prior to that we went to Marmarisa University for (small) climbing wall - first time I've got a ship to get to a climbing wall (i.e. some ferry from Istanbul to some other bit of Istanbul!). 'Pub' then club. Met Duncan. Nice to be able to get a cake at 2:30 am. Like wall, but a bit small, plus I don't really like climbing walls - too many holds to deal with! I like Istanbul - yesterday morning walked around bazaar. Must buy a towel. Bought a new 'man' bag.


A little annoyed I get asked for small bits of money; a couple of lira here, a couple of lira there. I am probably more 'broke' than the recepients. Looks like another hot day, well, not too hot - I guess it will get hotter later.

12:45 pm On tram to Aksoy - some sort of climbing wall; I have rope and harness etc - promises of 20 metre (!) routes. Hottish. Lots ruins; hazy blue sky.
19:00 Back at [Istanbul] hostel. Spent this afternoon at a climbing wall inside a real western style shopping centre / mall. Called the Olivium Shopping Mall. Indeed a 20 metre wall - a crag for poseurs! Good fun. Expensive medium-sweet Turkish coffee half way through [the climbing]. Not sure it helped the climbing though! Bought a towel. Just need a padlock then I'm set...