8.5 degrees C and 6 am. Just woke up from bivvy out at 3500 metres. Sleeping bag on yellow foam mat on big
sloping boulder. Fantastic stars last night. Slept okay - but in two hour chunks - because of the height I think. Some chocolate; then we'll go up to the next hut at about 4000 metres. This is the second permanent hut on this part of the mountain. Sunshine and easy walking up the 500 metres or so from the bivouac site, arrived at the hut. Several cups of tea - new Primus stove interesting to use - should have brought the instructions I guess. Horrid, noisy, leaks paraffin all over the place. Prefer gas. Not sure about the route up the mountain from here; but at least we are no in the real mountain zone so to speak - scree and snow slopes. Met a Hungarian couple - they said the last three hundred metres had a lot of sulphur smell. Our sport's plan for today is to scout up a further 500 metres then come back here for supper, w
e will then move up to bivvy at 4200 metres or something. 2:25 pm, moved up 510 metres above the camp. Up here on a recce - nice to be moving without the heavy packs. Cool wind, but fine in fleece jacket. Will push on up another 100 metres or so then go back down for supper. 3:15 pm 4715 metres and cold(ish). No headache. Think we can see the actual top - 'smoke' coming out of it. Waterfall (ice) off to the right and about
100 metres up [called Abshar Yakhy (Icy Water Fall)]. 8:20 pm second bivouac - we are out at 4400 metres. Note: we were 200 m out on the above heights - the final hut / camp is actually at 4200 metres, not 4000 metres. So today we got to 4900 metres, a personal best. A bit of a headache back at the final hut when having supper, but I think it's the stress of being with some of the others! 14 degrees C. Clear skies.
sloping boulder. Fantastic stars last night. Slept okay - but in two hour chunks - because of the height I think. Some chocolate; then we'll go up to the next hut at about 4000 metres. This is the second permanent hut on this part of the mountain. Sunshine and easy walking up the 500 metres or so from the bivouac site, arrived at the hut. Several cups of tea - new Primus stove interesting to use - should have brought the instructions I guess. Horrid, noisy, leaks paraffin all over the place. Prefer gas. Not sure about the route up the mountain from here; but at least we are no in the real mountain zone so to speak - scree and snow slopes. Met a Hungarian couple - they said the last three hundred metres had a lot of sulphur smell. Our sport's plan for today is to scout up a further 500 metres then come back here for supper, w
e will then move up to bivvy at 4200 metres or something. 2:25 pm, moved up 510 metres above the camp. Up here on a recce - nice to be moving without the heavy packs. Cool wind, but fine in fleece jacket. Will push on up another 100 metres or so then go back down for supper. 3:15 pm 4715 metres and cold(ish). No headache. Think we can see the actual top - 'smoke' coming out of it. Waterfall (ice) off to the right and about 
100 metres up [called Abshar Yakhy (Icy Water Fall)]. 8:20 pm second bivouac - we are out at 4400 metres. Note: we were 200 m out on the above heights - the final hut / camp is actually at 4200 metres, not 4000 metres. So today we got to 4900 metres, a personal best. A bit of a headache back at the final hut when having supper, but I think it's the stress of being with some of the others! 14 degrees C. Clear skies.
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